Sayulita murals are the starting point of the Walls of Sun and Stone Route, a weekend along Nayarit’s southern coast that pairs today’s art with ancient stone. It begins with the galleries of Bucerías, moves on to more than a hundred murals in Sayulita’s streets and the community art of San Pancho, and ends with the Altavista petroglyphs and the parish church of Compostela. That is about 175 km (110 mi) from south to north, from Puerto Vallarta airport to Compostela, along Federal Highway 200.
The old version of this route got its geography backwards: it said San Pancho was south of Sayulita. It is north, 8 km (5 mi) away by road. It also mentioned “archaeological remains” near Compostela without saying which ones. Below is the corrected route, with every stop placed on the map, real distances and what you will actually see.
The order follows the highway: Bucerías, Sayulita, San Pancho, Altavista and Compostela. Do it over two relaxed days, or in one long day if you only care about Sayulita and the petroglyphs.
Sayulita murals, San Pancho and Altavista: what to see
- Bucerías: galleries along Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas and, in high season, the Thursday night Art Walk.
- Sayulita: the Sayulita murals, many inspired by Wixárika (Huichol) art, plus folk art galleries around the plaza.
- San Pancho (San Francisco): Avenida Tercer Mundo with its galleries and cafés, and the EntreAmigos community center.
- Altavista petroglyphs: a creekside trail with dozens of rock carvings and a pool known as the Pila del Rey (King’s Basin).
- Compostela: a Pueblo Mágico (Magic Town, a federal tourism designation) that was once capital of New Galicia, with its parish of Santiago Apóstol.
How to get there
The route starts near Puerto Vallarta airport (PVR) and heads north. Coming from Tepic, you can run it in reverse, starting in Compostela. See how to get to Nayarit for flights and buses.
| From | To | Approx. distance | Approx. time | Road |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Puerto Vallarta airport | Bucerías | 13 km (8 mi) | 20–25 min | Federal 200 |
| Tepic | Compostela | 38 km (24 mi) | 35–45 min | Federal 200 |
| Tepic | Bucerías | 140 km (87 mi) | 2 h–2 h 15 min | Toll road and Federal 200 |
| Guadalajara | Bucerías | approx. 275 km (170 mi) | 3 h 30 min–4 h | Highway 15D and Federal 200 |
Mind the clock: Bucerías, Sayulita and San Pancho are in Bahía de Banderas, which runs on Central time. Altavista and Compostela belong to the municipality of Compostela, one hour behind. Keep that in mind for lunch and museum hours.
Two-day itinerary
| Day and approx. time | Leg / stop | Leg distance | Drive time | What to see |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Day 1, 9:30 | PVR airport → Bucerías | 13 km | 20–25 min | Galleries on Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas, breakfast by the sea |
| Day 1, 11:30 | Bucerías → Sayulita | 21 km | 25–30 min | Downtown murals, the plaza and Wixárika art galleries |
| Day 1, 16:30 | Sayulita → San Pancho | 8 km | 12–15 min | Avenida Tercer Mundo, EntreAmigos, sunset; overnight here |
| Day 2, 7:30 | San Pancho → Altavista | 42 km | 40–50 min | Petroglyph trail in the cool of the morning |
| Day 2, 12:00 | Altavista → Las Varas | 12 km | 10–15 min | Lunch in town |
| Day 2, 14:00 | Las Varas → Compostela | 37 km | 35–45 min | Parish of Santiago Apóstol and the town center |
| Day 2, 17:00 | Compostela → Tepic (optional) | 38 km | 35–45 min | End the route in the state capital |
If you arrive on a Thursday between November and April, flip day one: Sayulita and San Pancho in the morning, and Bucerías last for the evening Art Walk.
Bucerías: galleries and the Art Walk
Bucerías is the bay town closest to the airport. Its galleries cluster on Avenida Lázaro Cárdenas, a block from the beach. In high season, roughly November to April, the town holds an Art Walk on Thursday evenings, usually from 7 to 9 p.m. Galleries stay open, artwork spills onto the street and artists chat about their work. Dates shift each year, so confirm before you go.
The Sayulita murals
In Sayulita, the art is on the walls. A recent book project documented more than 145 murals by over 65 artists, many drawing on Wixárika imagery: deer, peyote, corn and god’s eyes. Walk the streets around the plaza and those climbing toward the cemetery and Playa Los Muertos. Around the plaza, folk art galleries sell yarn paintings and beadwork made by Wixárika artists from the Nayarit sierra. To read the symbols, see the origin and meaning of the ojo de dios. The best light for mural photos is early morning or late afternoon.
San Pancho: community art
San Pancho lies 8 km north of Sayulita. It is quieter, with a clear cultural streak. Avenida Tercer Mundo, the main street running down to the beach, is lined with galleries, workshops and cafés. The EntreAmigos community center has occupied a former milk-processing plant since 2009. It runs art workshops, a recycling center and a shop selling goods made from recycled materials, and its walls carry murals. Check its hours before you go. Spend the night here to catch the sunset on the beach.
Altavista petroglyphs and the Pila del Rey
This is where the stone comes in. About 10 km south of Las Varas, in the municipality of Compostela, a turnoff from Highway 200 near the village of Altavista leads to the petroglyph site. From the entrance you walk through tropical forest along Las Piletas creek, over large boulders. Some 2,000 carvings have been recorded in the area, and about 56 are visible in the visitor zone, with spirals, crosses and figures. At the end is the Pila del Rey, a spring-fed pool among large volcanic rocks. The place is still sacred to the Wixaritari, who leave offerings there, so do not touch the carvings or move anything.
The trail is rocky and uneven, unsuitable for strollers or anyone with limited mobility. Visitors have recently paid a small entrance fee, so bring cash. A guide helps, because the access is poorly signposted. More context in hidden places in Nayarit and on the King’s Archaeological Route.
Compostela: the old capital
Compostela sits at about 855 m (2,800 ft) at the foot of the sierra. It served as capital of New Galicia until 1560, when the seat moved to Guadalajara. Its parish of Santiago Apóstol is also known as the church of the Señor de la Misericordia, after the 16th-century polychrome wooden Christ venerated at the altar. The patron feast runs from November 22 to the first Friday of December, the best time to see the town in full swing. Tepic is less than 45 minutes away.
Season and tips
- Best season: November to April, with the Art Walk on, little rain and a dry Altavista trail. July to October brings rain, a swollen creek and more biting gnats.
- Altavista early: the forest is cooler before 11 a.m.
- Closed shoes for Altavista, plus bug spray, water and cash.
- Respect: ask before photographing Wixárika artists, and avoid unsigned pieces of unclear origin.
- Bucerías to San Pancho without a car: the Compostela bus runs Highway 200; for Altavista, use a car or a tour.
For the rest of the coast, see what to do in Riviera Nayarit and our weekend routes. Find lodging in the directory.
Frequently asked questions
Where are the Sayulita murals?
Downtown, around the plaza and on the streets climbing toward the cemetery and Playa Los Muertos. You can see them on foot in a couple of hours.
Is San Pancho north or south of Sayulita?
North, about 8 km along Federal Highway 200, a 12- to 15-minute drive.
Where are the Altavista petroglyphs?
In the municipality of Compostela, near the village of Altavista and about 10 km south of Las Varas. From San Pancho it is roughly 42 km on Highway 200.
What is the Pila del Rey?
A spring-fed pool at the end of the Altavista petroglyph trail, surrounded by large volcanic rocks. It is a sacred site for the Wixaritari.
When is the Bucerías Art Walk?
Thursday evenings in high season, roughly November to April. Confirm the dates each season.
Can I do the route in one day?
Yes, if you choose: Sayulita, San Pancho and Altavista fit in a long day. To add Bucerías and Compostela, spend a night in San Pancho.
Area map
- 1Bucerías Galleries on Av. Lázaro Cárdenas; Thursday Art Walk in high season.20.75559, -105.33435 · Open in Google Maps
- 2Sayulita plaza Downtown murals and Wixárika art galleries.20.8689, -105.4407 · Open in Google Maps
- 3San Pancho (San Francisco) 8 km north of Sayulita: Avenida Tercer Mundo and EntreAmigos.20.90224, -105.41334 · Open in Google Maps
- 4Altavista petroglyphs Compostela. Trail along Las Piletas creek to the Pila del Rey.21.08928, -105.16861 · Open in Google Maps
- 5Compostela Pueblo Mágico and former capital of New Galicia; parish of Santiago Apóstol.21.23752, -104.89937 · Open in Google Maps
