There is a side of Nayarit that moves at a slower pace, far from the sound of the surf. It lies in the south of the state, at the foot of the Ceboruco volcano, where the air smells of pine and every cobbled street carries a story of faith and corn. That place is Jala, a Pueblo Mágico since 2012 and one of the most peaceful corners of the region.
This guide lays out a two-day route: the square with its pink-stone basilica, a night in an 18th-century mansion, a workshop where women weave with pine needles, the volcanic rock pools of the Tinajas del Diablo and, to finish, a tasting at the first vineyard in Nayarit, 1,900 meters above sea level. Jala sits about 70 km from Tepic and roughly 150 km from Guadalajara, so it works just as well as a weekend escape from the state capital as it does as the first stop on the Magical Town route through southern Nayarit.
The historic heart: the basilica and the Sacred Art Museum
The route begins on the main square, dominated by the Basílica Lateranense de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. Its neo-Gothic façade of pink quarry stone, built between the 19th and 20th centuries, glows in the afternoon light and is without question the postcard image of Jala. The doorway carries an image of the Virgin with indigenous features and pre-Hispanic dress, a nod to the town’s mixed heritage. Inside, the cool of the nave contrasts with the heat of the street and invites silence.
Next to the church stands the Museo de Arte Sacro, the first sacred art museum in Nayarit. Its collection includes Christ figures made of corn-stalk paste, colonial paintings and liturgical ornaments that trace several centuries of devotion in the area. It is a short visit, but it explains why faith still shapes the calendar in Jala. At dusk, when the basilica is lit up, the square and its arcades are the perfect place for an unhurried walk.
Sleeping and eating in an 18th-century mansion
Facing the basilica is Nukari Quinta Boutique, a small hotel set in an 18th-century house and the reference point for lodging in southern Nayarit: rooms looking out over the hills, a spa offering massages with regional citrus oils, and a restaurant that serves as an introduction to the cooking of the sierra.
At the table, order the mole de olla made with local herbs and the atole de grano, a thick corn drink prepared here with the local corn. Jala is corn country: the community of Jomulco grows the giant corn, with ears over 40 centimeters, which takes center stage every August at the Corn Fair (Feria del Elote), with corn snacks on every corner. More flavors in the guide to Nayarit cuisine.
Spending the night in Jala has a charm of its own: cool evenings, no traffic noise and, at most, the wind in the trees. Here, stillness is an affordable luxury.
Into the sierra: pine-needle crafts in Los Aguajes
Day two takes you up into the mountains. From the town center, a mountain road leads to the community of Los Aguajes, on the Juanacatlán plateau. This is home to the Manos de Viento workshop, where women artisans turn pine needles (the dry needles that fall from the trees) into baskets, hats, tortilla holders and ornaments with a fine, sturdy weave. The technique is sustainable: no tree is cut. Watching the process up close, with the scent of resin in the air, is one of the most authentic experiences on the route. Pieces are sold at the workshop itself and cash payments go straight to the artisans.
The Tinajas del Diablo: pools carved in volcanic rock
Nearby, in the area of Cofradía de Juanacatlán, are the Tinajas del Diablo. These are stepped pools carved by water into dark basalt: over thousands of years, runoff from the mountain wore round hollows that look like enormous natural jars (tinajas), hence the name. Small waterfalls of clear water spill from one pool to the next.
Access is on foot along a short trail, and it is best to go with a local guide from the community who knows the safe crossings and shares the legends that surround the place. In the dry season the pools are ideal for a dip; after the summer rains the flow increases and extra care is needed. The wind whistling through the rocks gives the site a special atmosphere.
If you would like to sleep in the sierra, Cabañas Renacimiento in Los Aguajes offers simple, eco-friendly lodging with dry toilets and solar power, surrounded by forest: ideal for disconnecting and watching the sunrise over the plateau.
Meseta del Cielo: a tasting at 1,900 meters
The route ends at the Meseta del Cielo vineyard, the first in Nayarit and one of the highest in the country. It sits on the same Juanacatlán plateau, about 1,900 meters above sea level, on dark volcanic soil inherited from the Ceboruco. The first vines were planted in 2019 and, after several trials, the varieties that adapted best to the temperate high-altitude climate were Syrah and Macabeo. The first commercial vintage was released in 2022 and the vineyard has welcomed visitors since 2023.
The visit includes a walk between the vines, with the volcano in the background, and a guided tasting of an earthy Syrah and a fresh, mineral white Macabeo. The Syrah already features on national lists of the best Mexican wines. The contrast between the green vines, the black soil and the deep blue afternoon sky makes for one of the most photogenic landscapes in Nayarit. Book ahead, especially on weekends.
With an extra day, the crater of the Ceboruco volcano can be reached by a dirt road that leaves from Jala.
Suggested two-day itinerary
| When | Activity | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Day 1, midday | Arrival in Jala and a sierra-style lunch | Mole de olla, atole de grano, corn snacks |
| Day 1, afternoon | Basilica of the Assumption and Sacred Art Museum | Pink-stone façade; museum on the square |
| Day 1, evening | Stroll around the lit-up square and rest | Boutique lodging facing the basilica |
| Day 2, morning | Drive up to Los Aguajes and Manos de Viento workshop | Bring cash for the crafts |
| Day 2, midday | Tinajas del Diablo with a local guide | Short trail; swimsuit in the dry season |
| Day 2, afternoon | Tasting at Meseta del Cielo vineyard | Reservation required; return to Tepic or Guadalajara |
Practical info
- Getting there: Jala lies on the Tepic-Guadalajara toll road (Jala/Ceboruco exit). From Tepic it is about 70 km, around one hour; from Guadalajara, about 150 km, an hour and a half to two hours. Buses reach the town center, but the sierra and the vineyard require your own vehicle or local transport.
- Best time to visit: October to April, with sunny days and cool nights, ideal for walking in the mountains without rain. August brings the Corn Fair. See the guide to the best time to visit Nayarit.
- Getting around: the roads to the sierra and the vineyard are winding, with unpaved stretches; in the rainy season a high-clearance vehicle is preferable.
- What to bring: layered clothing (cold mornings on the plateau, warm midday), shoes with good grip, sunscreen, water, a swimsuit and cash, since there are no ATMs in the sierra.
- Combine the route: fifteen minutes away is Ixtlán del Río, with the Los Toriles archaeological site; the other inland destinations are in the guide to Nayarit’s Pueblos Mágicos.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need in Jala?
Two days cover the center, the workshop in Los Aguajes, the Tinajas del Diablo and the vineyard. With a third you can climb the Ceboruco or visit Ixtlán del Río.
Can you swim in the Tinajas del Diablo?
Yes, in the dry season the pools are safe for a dip. After heavy rain the flow increases and it is best to stay out. Always go with a guide from the community.
Do you need a reservation for the Meseta del Cielo vineyard?
Yes. Visits and tastings are arranged by prior reservation, especially on weekends and long weekends.
What is Jala’s giant corn?
It is a native corn variety from Jomulco whose ears often exceed 40 centimeters. It is celebrated every August at the Corn Fair.
Area map
- 1Jala Basilica Lateran Basilica of Our Lady of the Assumption.21.10463, -104.43682 · Open in Google Maps
- 2Jomulco Community next to the town of Jala.21.10268, -104.42525 · Open in Google Maps
- 3Los Aguajes Mountain community of Jala known for pine-needle crafts.21.10709, -104.35456 · Open in Google Maps
- 4Cofradía de Juanacatlán Village on the Jala plateau, near the Tinajas del Diablo pools.21.10794, -104.32191 · Open in Google Maps
- 5Meseta del Cielo vineyard Vineyard at about 1,900 m; tastings by reservation.21.1041, -104.3203 · Open in Google Maps
