Del Nayar, Nayarit: Jesús María, Cora Holy Week and More

Del Nayar, Nayarit (also called El Nayar, with the surrounding region known as the Sierra del Nayar or the Gran Nayar) is the largest municipality in the state and the heartland of the Náayeri (Cora) and Wixárika (Huichol) peoples. It covers 5,264 km² of the Sierra Madre Occidental, has 47,550 residents, and 86% of its people speak an Indigenous language. The municipal seat is Jesús María, at the bottom of a valley about 426 m above sea level, and its other major center is Mesa del Nayar, at almost 1,400 m.

Visiting Del Nayar is not conventional tourism. You are entering territories with their own traditional authorities, ceremonies and rules that visitors are expected to respect. This guide explains how to get there from Tepic and Ruiz, what to know about the Cora Holy Week, how to behave as a guest, the weather and the municipality’s key facts.

Del Nayar Nayarit at a glance

• Population (2020 Census, INEGI): 47,550 in about 550 localities. Jesús María has 3,695; Mesa del Nayar, 2,976; Santa Teresa, 2,228; and Linda Vista, 1,412.
• Area: 5,264 km², the largest and most rural municipality in Nayarit.
• Languages: 86% of residents aged 5 and over speak an Indigenous language, mainly Cora (Náayeri) and Wixárika (Huichol); there are also Tepehuán speakers.
• Origins: for nearly two centuries it was the subprefecture of Jesús María, and it became a free municipality in 1939. Its official name under Nayarit’s territorial division law is Del Nayar, though it is also called El Nayar.
• Neighbors: the states of Durango, Zacatecas and Jalisco, plus the Nayarit municipalities of La Yesca, Santa María del Oro, Tepic, Ruiz and Rosamorada, among others.

The Sierra del Nayar and the Gran Nayar

The state takes its name from these mountains. The Cora call themselves náayeri (plural náayerite), which became “Nayarit.” The Sierra del Nayar was one of the last regions of Mexico to fall under Spanish rule: an expedition failed in 1716, and the conquest of Mesa del Nayar was only completed in 1722, two centuries after the fall of Tenochtitlan. Until then, the Cora had never allowed missionaries to live in their territory.

Today, the Gran Nayar refers to the cultural region shared by the Náayeri, Wixárika, O’dam (Southern Tepehuán) and Mexicanero peoples across Nayarit, Durango, Zacatecas and Jalisco. Their religion blends their own beliefs with Catholicism: the Sun (Tayau), Tetewan, goddess of the moon and the underworld, and corn sit at the center of ceremonies such as the mitotes, held at sacred sites in the mountains.

What to know about Del Nayar municipality

Jesús María, the municipal seat

Jesús María lies at about 426 m beside the river of the same name, surrounded by steep slopes. It is the main Cora town in the municipality and the best-known setting of the Náayeri Holy Week. Outside festival time it’s a quiet, hot town with a plaza, a church and basic services.

Mesa del Nayar

At 1,383 m on a plateau, Mesa del Nayar is one of the most important Cora communities and a historic site: this is where the Náayeri surrendered in 1722. The climate is mild. It is only about 25 km from Jesús María, but the road drops almost a thousand meters.

Wixárika communities

The municipality is also home to Wixárika communities. Their beadwork and yarn art, and the ojos de dios (God’s eyes), are best bought directly from the artisans. Before you go, read about the origin and meaning of the ojo de dios and the Guardians of the Peyote route.

Aguamilpa reservoir

The reservoir of the Aguamilpa dam, which began operating in 1994 on the Santiago River, reaches into the south of the municipality. The dam wall itself is on the Tepic side.

Cora Holy Week: what you should know

The Náayeri Holy Week, known as La Judea, is the most important celebration of the year in Jesús María, Mesa del Nayar and other Cora communities. Over several days, hundreds of men paint their bodies and take part as “judíos” or “borrados” in a ceremony that weaves the Christian Passion story together with the Cora worldview and the agricultural cycle. In 2027 the main days fall on Thursday, March 25, and Friday, March 26.

• It is a ceremony, not a show. The traditional authorities decide who may attend and where.
• Photography: taking photos or video is usually prohibited during Holy Week, and you may be asked to hand over or put away your camera. Respect the rule even if you see others ignoring it.
• Lodging: very limited. Plan well ahead and consider staying in Ruiz or Tepic if you can’t find a room.
• For the rest of the state during those dates, see our Holy Week in Nayarit guide.

At the start of each year, communities also hold the cambio de varas, the ceremony in which new traditional authorities take office.

How to get to Del Nayar from Tepic and Ruiz

The gateway to the Sierra del Nayar is Ruiz. From Tepic, take the 15D highway north (63 km, about 1 hour); in Ruiz you start climbing on the Ruiz–Zacatecas state road, a mountain route with hairpin curves and steep grades. Mesa del Nayar is about 100 km from Ruiz (around 2.5 hours) and Jesús María 124 km (around 3 hours), the last 25 km dropping down from the Mesa.

Route	Km	Approx. time	Road
Tepic → Ruiz	63 km	1 h	15D highway north
Ruiz → Mesa del Nayar	100 km	2 h 30 min	Ruiz–Zacatecas mountain road
Ruiz → Jesús María	124 km	3 h	Same road, then down from the Mesa
Tepic → Mesa del Nayar	157 km	3 h 30 min	15D to Ruiz + mountain road
Tepic → Jesús María	181 km	4 h	15D to Ruiz + mountain road
Mesa del Nayar → Jesús María	25 km	45 min	Descent of nearly 1,000 m
Guadalajara → Jesús María	385 km	6 h 30 min – 7 h	15D via Tepic and Ruiz

Road distances calculated in 2026. In the rainy season (June to September) landslides are common and travel times grow. Drive in daylight, fill your tank in Ruiz and carry enough cash. If you’re coming from outside the state, start with how to get to Nayarit.

Del Nayar weather

Elevation changes everything: Jesús María, on the valley floor, is hot; Mesa del Nayar is mild. Approximate values (2001–2024 averages):

Season	Jesús María (426 m)	Mesa del Nayar (1,383 m)	Rain
Dec – Feb	30 – 31 °C / 13 – 14 °C	23 – 24 °C / 9 – 10 °C	Little
Mar – May	34 – 38 °C / 15 – 20 °C	27 – 30 °C / 11 – 15 °C	Almost none; May is the hottest month
Jun – Sep	32 – 35 °C / 22 °C	26 – 28 °C / 18 °C	Heavy, especially July and August
Oct – Nov	32 – 33 °C / 17 – 20 °C	25 – 26 °C / 13 – 16 °C	Tapering off

Average high / low. For reference, 30 °C is 86 °F and 10 °C is 50 °F. The dry season, November to May, is the safest time to drive in the sierra.

How to visit respectfully

• Introduce yourself to the local authorities if you plan to stay in or walk around a community, and ask what is allowed.
• Ask before photographing any person, home or ceremony. A “no” means no.
• Don’t enter ceremonial centers or sacred sites without an invitation.
• Buy crafts and food directly from local people, and pay a fair price without hard bargaining.
• Travel with a local guide or someone who knows the region and has ties to the communities.
• Don’t bring alcohol to festivals, and don’t leave trash along the way.

To plan the rest of your trip, browse all destinations in Nayarit and our guide to Nayarit cuisine.

Frequently asked questions

Area map

1. 1
   Jesús María (municipal seat) Main Cora town, at 426 m; 181 km from Tepic (about 4 h).22.2513, -104.518 · Open in Google Maps
2. 2
   Mesa del Nayar Cora community on a plateau at 1,383 m; the conquest ended here in 1722.22.2148, -104.6507 · Open in Google Maps
3. 3
   Aguamilpa dam 1997 dam on the Santiago River; its reservoir reaches into Del Nayar.21.839, -104.8036 · Open in Google Maps
4. 4
   Ruiz Gateway to the sierra: the road to Mesa del Nayar and Jesús María starts here.21.9505, -105.1461 · Open in Google Maps