The Lagoon That Changes Color | Santa María del Oro | La Laguna

There are places that welcome you with an embrace of silence and beauty. Santa María del Oro was one of them for me. I did not arrive seeking just a landscape, but a pause, and what I found was an experience that clung to my skin and my memory. This lagoon, an ancient volcanic crater, has more than a single shade: it is a mirror of the sky and the season. I saw it dress in a deep cobalt blue, promising mystery, and the next day, under the full sun, gleam with a turquoise so vibrant it seemed unreal. This trip was a reminder that in Nayarit, the magic is not only on the coast.

A Refuge with a View of Tranquility

My base of operations was Hotel Chi’l Jaj, a discovery that defines rest with style. Its architecture, which dialogues with the surroundings using local materials in a contemporary design, won me over instantly. I opened the curtains of my room and there it was: the lagoon framed like a living work of art, still and majestic. After the journey, there was no better plan than to drop my things, put on my swimsuit and head straight to its lagoon club. The infinity pool seems to merge with the crater’s water, creating a perfect illusion. I felt the frantic rhythm of the outside world fade away with the first breeze that brushed my face.

Adventure and Flavor in the Crater’s Waters

I devoted the second day to exploring the lagoon from within. I hired the services of a local operator for a kayak tour. Gliding over that glassy surface, paddling at a leisurely pace, was a meditation in motion. The water is surprisingly cool and clear. Later, I gave a paddle-board class a try, a fun challenge that ends in an absolute sense of accomplishment as you balance over that blue world. For the more curious, they also offer boat rides to explore hidden corners of the shore, where the vegetation dips into the water.

Hunger, after so much activity, is more than satisfied in the surrounding area. Following a guide’s advice, I arrived at Restaurante El Desagüe, located precisely where the lagoon has its water outlet. The atmosphere is rustic and authentic. Without hesitation, I ordered its specialty: the chicharrón de pescado (crispy fried fish). It arrived at the table crunchy, golden and with a juiciness that pairs perfectly with handmade tortillas and freshly ground molcajete salsas. Eating with that view, feeling the breeze, is a simple luxury that defines the essence of the place.

Adrenaline and Sunsets in the Mountains

I wanted to contrast the peace of the lagoon with a dose of adrenaline. Just about 20 minutes away by car, in the community of Real de Acuitapilco, is Arcadia Park Adventure. To enter this park is to immerse yourself in a forest of pines and deep ravines. I geared up for the ziplines that soar over the canyon: the sensation of flying among the treetops, with the wind whistling, is pure excitement. I also tried rappelling next to a waterfall and walked across suspension bridges that test your balance. It was a morning of screams and laughter, capped off with a well-deserved and spicy aguachile at the park’s eatery.

The farewell had to be worthy of it all. For the last night, I made a reservation at Restaurante Nace del Mar, known for its signature cuisine with Nayarit touches. I ordered the “4 Mares,” a feast of fresh seafood prepared with mastery. As I savored each bite, the sky over the lagoon began its daily transformation. The setting sun set the horizon ablaze with shades of orange, pink and lilac, and the lagoon, true to its mirror-like nature, doubled the spectacle. It was a moment of pure gratitude, a perfect ending.

Before You Go to Santa María del Oro

To make your experience as complete as mine, consider these practical tips:

  • The best time: The dry season, from November to May, offers the sunniest days and the famous intense turquoise color. In the rainy season, the landscape turns greener and the lagoon takes on deep blue tones.
  • Getting around: It is advisable to arrive in your own or a rented car. It will give you the freedom to explore the lagoon, the nearby town and attractions such as the adventure park.
  • Essential packing: Bring sunscreen, a cap, insect repellent, comfortable clothing and, crucially, a good pair of closed shoes with traction if you plan to do the mountain activities.
  • A budget for activities: Estimate an average of 200 to 350 pesos per person to rent kayaks or take paddle classes. Boat rides usually cost around 150 pesos per person.
  • Book in advance: If you travel on a long weekend or in high season, reserve your lodging and a table at the most popular restaurants a few days ahead to secure your spot.

Santa María del Oro is more than a destination; it is a feeling. It is the wonder before a palette of colors that changes with the light, the taste of perfectly fried fish by the water, the laughter that escapes as you fly over a canyon and the deep peace that comes with a silent sunset. It is one of those corners of Nayarit that asks to be compared to nothing, because it has its own identity, powerful and transformative. It dares you to disconnect, to feel and to promise, as I did, that you will return.